By Dick Hertzler

Many of the questions I've received in the eight months since I became the CCOA's Technical Adviser have left me with a feeling of deja vu: I've seen them before and have had many of the same problems with my cars (I still own my '69 XR-7 convertible, which I bought new, and I had a new '67 before that).

So, I thought a thorough article on the quirks common to classic Cougars would interest all members. You can use this as a checklist of sorts before you embark on a tour, perform routine maintenance or look over a new purchase. It's called "Once Around the Cat" because it will cover the quirks by section of the car. Hope you use it to further the trouble-free enjoyment of your own cat.

The Engine

First, disconnect the starter switch lead from the starter relay and then, with the ignition switch off, use a remote starter switch to crank the engine without firing. If you hear an uneven sound as the engine turns over, your cat most likely will need a valve job soon. Do a compression test to verify; you'll likely find several cylinders low. If you suspect a cylinder's rings have gone bad (lots of smoke or very low compression in a cylinder), remove the cylinder's spark plug and squirt some oil in the plug hole, then repeat the compression test. If the compression improves, you've got ring trouble in that cylinder. Face up to it: There's an engine overhaul in your future.

Next, a brief word about fuel. In the '60s, gasoline was formulated as a "heavy fluid"--in short, the vapors stayed close to the ground when it vaporized, thus the rich gas smell we all remember. In a carburetor, the fuel tended to "fall" into the manifold, where vacuum sucked it into the cylinders for compression. But gasoline today is much lighter and the vapors rise quickly. More or less, it must be shoved down into the cylinders (that's right: fuel injection). What this means is that your Cougar's engine must have rock steady and normal vacuum to pull the fuel into the cylinders. To get this, you'll need to increase the engine idle (maybe 800 to 950 rpm). And when starting your car, you'll need to crank the engine six or seven seconds (after the fuel gets to the carb) for sufficient "new gas" to be available to fire. Don't necessarily expect a problem if such a starting delay is the only symptom.

As for checks, start with an inspection of the carburetor area and fuel filter hose. If the hose is soft or gooey, replace it! There was a time when you could get cheap fuel filters at discount stores and we who did our own maintenance often did not bother to replace the hose that came with the filter. It lies very near (or over) the coil and engine fires from leaking hoses were more common than they should have been. My neighbor's '70 XR-7 with houndstooth top and interior caught fire from this very problem, and it cost him plenty! Check the carb mounting bolts, look for leaks (fuel in the valley of the manifold), check the PCV hose (again, soft and gooey). Replace the PCV valve--hearing the ball rattle when you shake it tells you nothing! There is still goo in the bottom of the valve, rest assured. We always cleaned them with 2+2, but the older the engine, the more the blow-by and the more crud in the PCV valve.

Most all carburetors can stand a good cleaning and rebuild, which is fairly easy to perform, particularly on the Motorcraft 2100 or 4300 models. Learn this axiom well: If it ever ran right and now doesn't, it is not--repeat, not--simply something out of adjustment. You will find grit and other scum in the carb. Clean it out, and everything should be fine. If you suspect the carburetor has been "tweaked," you'll have to set it up from scratch. The hardest part of this job is to set the fast idle and choke pull down with the linkage "set to the index mark on the fast idle cam," as the shop manual advises. It helps to have 14 fingers here. But study it carefully and you will see what the manual means. A bent paper clip serves to keep the choke piston in position. Do this right and the car will start right up, run at fast idle, move to the intermediate fast idle position when the accelerator is first pushed and then move to the off position when the choke fully opens. Believe me, the cars all ran great when driven away from the dealer and it's not too difficult to restore the adjustments.

Next, check the battery and tray. You've probably already taken care of simple corrosion to the hold down bracket and cables, but did you check the alternator harness that runs under the tray? Acid can burn these wires, again causing shorts and expensive repairs. Alternator harnesses are commonly available.

If your engine sometimes stumbles at idle, or misses on acceleration, be sure the spark plug wires on the driver's side are in the valve cover loom in the order 7-5-6-8 (for 289/302/390/428 engines) and in the order 5-7-6-8 (for 351W and 351C engines). For the first group, the firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. Cylinders 7 and 8 are adjacent and can crossfire when the wires run side-by-side in the loom. For the 351 engines, the firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. It is cylinders 6 and 5 that are adjacent. Separating the wires in the loom eliminates the crossfire. I have seen this to cause blown head gaskets, particularly if the timing is badly off. Of course, you want to be sure the resistance wires themselves are good!

Don't forget to double-check the braided ground wire inside the distributor between the breaker plate and ground. A mere 1 ohm of resistance in this wire will cause all manner of rough engine running. I recently had a '67 289 with lots of minor problems, all indicating a need for an overhaul. But the car recently had been driven to Florida from Las Vegas, with the A/C running! Ace Ford Service Manager Tom Seaman (Seaman's Transport) fudged with it for two hours. He couldn't find the specific problem, but he eliminated many things. As he departed, his final words were: "It's something simple; start over and check the basics." I grabbed my old Sears Ignition Analyzer and the very first test was point resistance. It showed 1 1/2 ohms. I didn't believe it, as I had changed the points at least twice. But the "Possible Cause" listed the distributor ground wires, and that was the problem. I made a new one out of stranded wire and two soldered terminals and installed it, and the car ran like a champ!

If instant acceleration is not on tap and the carburetor pump is new, now is the time to try a Pertronix "Ignitor" ignition module. But first, take the cap off the distributor, being careful not to break the resistance-type spark plug wires. Remove the points, condenser, wire and vacuum advance (take care with those screws!). Remove the breaker plate, noting the position of the washers and "C clip" that secure it. You will find three white nylon glides underneath. I bet they are gummed up and the underside of the breaker plate is loaded with gum and three fine tracks where it rides on the glides. Clean everything, put a light coating of graphite lube on the glides and reassemble. Now, install the Pertronix module (or the points). Once you have the engine running (set points, if used, for correct dwell), time the ignition to original specs and then check for centrifugal advance with vacuum disconnected. The timing mark will move up slowly after the engine reaches about 2,000 rpm. Then reconnect the vacuum advance and recheck. Wow! The mark will zoom up the instant you accelerate! This happens because the breaker plate is no longer dragging! Check the accelerator linkage and everything else related to put it back where it is supposed to be. I cannot tell you how many cars are out there that have been "adjusted" to compensate for this simple thing! I have a '68 Hertz XR-7G with a 390 and the distributor breaker plate screws in it were still sealed with glue! The underside of the plate was gummed up beyond belief. With everything put right, the car runs like a scalded bat out of hell, just like when new!

Mindful of proper vacuum, check the vacuum distribution tee behind the carburetor. Block off the vacuum to the headlights if you suspect problems there. The bottom-most tap usually is capped with a rubber cover that tends to melt. From my experience, this is the primary cause of poor mileage, lazy headlights, intermittent A/C and other vacuum-related problems. With vacuum finally at least steady, you should adjust the carb idle mixture to maximize it. Now, you should have smooth, instant acceleration and the knowledge that everything essential is back where Mercury had it when new. Be sure you check the heater/air conditioner vacuum can under the passenger fender! This also is very rust prone, and the primary symptom will be that the air flow will divert to the defroster ducts at idle and return to floor or dash level when you accelerate, particularly if the engine vacuum is low or erratic. And, if you have a tilt/swing-away steering wheel, there is a vacuum can for that below the battery, also under the passenger fender. Check the cruise control actuator bellows for a leak, too. The heater can has connections for two different size hoses, so you need an exact replacement.

Next, check the start relay ground screws. These are simple sheet metal screws, and the hole gets larger each time the relay is removed (for replacement or engine compartment detailing, for example). This is a prime cause of intermittent and slow starter operation.

Check the relay-to-starter cable. There is a service bulletin covering the common problem, described as, "won't crank when hot, been shut off just a few minutes" (like a quick run into the drug store). The starter motor absorbs a lot of heat and the armature swells up, so much so that it won't turn easily. A heavy-duty starter (for a truck or large car) usually cures the problem, but so will changing the cable to a '71 to '73 cable, which is much larger than that used from 1967 to '70. Of course, make sure you have a properly charged battery.

This next check can prove discouraging, because it illustrates that no job is ever simple. Check the thermostat housing for corrosion. If you find some, it's likely you've got a leak (at least, a small one). You will probably see green antifreeze in the valley of the water pump casting. The leak also might have come from the bypass hose. Check it! Nobody likes to remove the thermostat housing on a 289--the bolts are behind the water pump flange and the lower is nearly impossible to remove. This is precisely why gas station mechanics didn't remove it when changing the antifreeze, which means the engine has probably never been flushed. Get a new housing, thermostat and gasket and bypass hose. Lower the water level in the radiator and remove the upper hose. (This is where you discover the petcock valve also is broken and spins freely!) Say a prayer that you will not break either of the bolts off in the manifold and proceed with lots of "Liquid Wrench" or similar product. The only wrench that will work is an arced, six-sided, box-end starter wrench. Work the bolts loose just a little, re-spray to reach the threads and then tighten them. Working back and forth like this will get them out. You will probably have to "chase" the manifold threads. Yes, this means the water pump has to come off. But this is a good thing because it, too, probably has never been changed and corrosion of the impeller drastically reduces water flow. Remove the lower hose, the radiator, shroud, fan, alternator and power steering pump. You can leave the A/C compressor on its bracket and bolted to the cylinder head. Be sure you keep a good record of which bolts go in which holes and, also, what other brackets they secure. Flush the engine and do what other items need doing here. (See what I meant with my comment about "discouraging" at the beginning of this section?) At this point, you might as well change the hoses, clean all the oil scum from the housing, repaint--whatever. If you have an energy-saver fan clutch, get a new one (avoid the rebuilds). There is absolutely no way to tell if it allows the fan to turn fast enough when the engine is hot. If you have a high-mileage engine, remove the front cover and change the timing gears and chain! Get the best you can find, including the gasket for the front of the oil pan to the front cover. Don't forget to ask yourself why you are not putting a new fuel pump on at this time--it will never be easier! Put it all back together and congratulate yourself. See how a simple check can turn into a major job? Sorry you ever raised the hood? If you are ready for more, we'll press on.

Check the fluid in the master cylinder. If it's cloudy or gummy, prepare yourself for a brake job soon. Low fluid level could indicate something as simple as pad or shoe wear, but keep an eye out for leaks at the wheel cylinders. And take care when you change the pads on a disc system: Compressing the calipers can create a geyser of brake fluid that can damage your car's paint. And by the way, there is no practical way to center the brake warning light switch in the proportioning valve. I can't tell you how loud a Mercury mechanic laughs when he reads the procedure in the shop manual. It does not affect the operation of the valve, as the spool that operates the switch is in a bypass hydraulic circuit. Just disconnect the switch wires, but put them back on at judging, so the light will work then. I have been told that removing the switch and moving the valve spool with a dental pick can work, but it never did for me.

Now for something simple. Check the radio ground strap between the hood and the cowl. Bend it so it makes contact (yes, through that new paint!) if you want the original radio not to sing to the distributor on acceleration. Some cars with the rectangular antenna base have a ground strap under the snap-on cover. Be sure it is tight to one of the four screws through the fender. While on this subject, check the braided engine ground wire to the cowl behind the right valve cover. It has to be tight for electrical items to work; remember that the battery ground is to the engine block, and from there to the body via this cable. New underhood paint can insulate this wire!

And last, for this group, put a meter on the battery when the engine is idling. If you don't have at least 13.4 volts that goes to at least 13.8 when engine accelerates, do not expect your turn signals to work correctly. The problem? Tighten the alternator belt until you think it will snap, then tighten it some more! I had this problem for years with my '69. An old timer at "Walt's Auto Electric," in Daytona Beach, told me that 12.8 volts was just not enough across the new battery! Now, I thought that belt was tight, but making it tighter (forget that "1/2-inch of play" nonsense in a Cougar) solved the problem! Now I have 13.4 volts at idle and the turn signals work happily while waiting in traffic. Funny, but the alternator belt doesn't tend to squeal, so it's tough to tell it's slipping and not letting the alternator run at full output. But this is certainly not the case with the power steering belt! Tighten that one while you are at it, and then use a 1/2-inch breaker bar in that convenient square hole in the A/C idler pulley bracket to get that one tight, too.

The Headlights

We all love the hidden headlights. So neat, but such as mess! While they're easy to check, they're not as easy to fix. Learn first that vacuum holds the lights closed when the headlight switch is off. Remember: Any vacuum leak anywhere will upset the smooth running of the engine, so everything must be fixed. . .or bypassed (plugged) until it can be. Here we go.

First, with engine running, listen for vacuum leaks under the dash ('68-'70). If you hear a leak, it's likely coming from an old cracked hose at the headlight switch. And it's possible the vacuum sucked some dirt into the switch itself, which could mean you'll need a new switch, as well as hoses. And if you are in serious judging territory, you'll need to worry about the stripe colors on the replacement hoses. For hose replacement, I strongly recommend consulting a vacuum diagram--either a stand-alone version or the diagrams in your shop manual. Most classic Cougar parts dealers stock both. The '67 uses a solenoid valve integrated in the headlight bypass switch, near the washer bag. Check here for cracked hoses.

With no vacuum to the headlights, the lights should open on their own. In fact, early '67 cars were recalled to install a hose kit (easy to find at flea markets) that ensured the lights would open if the engine stopped. You can run temporary engine vacuum to the bypass switch, and the lights should close. Listen for a leak at the vacuum reservoir tank under the driver's side fender. These tanks are prone to rust-through. Also, the vacuum line entering the tank just behind the driver's side headlight assembly often cracks and causes leaks. If that's the problem, disconnect it, trim off a half inch or so and reattach. As a test, you can disconnect and plug this hose; if the lights close, you've found your leak. A leaking reservoir tank is a leading cause of headlights that open either as soon as the engine stops or shortly thereafter. Also: The factory test (and judging standards) for a correctly operating headlight system vacuum is that 15 seconds after the engine is turned off the headlights should close when the switch is pushed in. Now, we go to the specifics of the '67-'68 headlight cover system vs. the '69-'70 system.

The '67-'68 system uses two vacuum motors, one for each cover. Both are dual action and independent and do not necessarily open and close simultaneously. Vacuum on one side of the motor pulls the doors open (with some spring assistance); on the other side, the vacuum pushes the doors closed. All of this is controlled by the porting of vacuum at the headlight switch ('68-'70) or solenoid/bypass switch ('67), with the bypass switch open. These vacuum motors often go bad and need to be replaced or rebuilt. It's not unusual for one headlight cover to close while the other stays open. And if one cover rubs on the adjacent grille, you'll get uneven operation. A defective diaphragm inside the motor will cause an audible vacuum leak. Run the headlights open all the time (use the bypass switch), until you fix the faulty motor.

Cougars from the '69 and '70 model years use a single vacuum motor. Here we have real fun, as we discover Mercury used two assembly methods for the mechanism in '69 cars. Refer to ATSOTC volume 14, number 1, for the whole story. Some '69 mechanisms push the light open, while others pull the lights open. This single-handedly decides whether your lights (when working right) will stay closed for weeks or, perhaps, for only two days because of the way the springs end up. All the '70 cars are configured to push the doors closed because of the long nose center grille. And the parts of the mechanism are absolutely not interchangeable!

While you are messing around with the headlights, check carefully that the stainless steel headlight rings are not broken. These are really mean to install, and the tabs where the spring attaches break easily, leaving the lamp loose in the bucket. Be careful if you are putting in four fresh logo lamps for judging. Also (and don't ask why), the headlamp buckets are unique to Cougars. They have to have a "WY" part number. Use of a different bucket will prevent the lights from aiming correctly.

Now, to those '68 marker lamps. The only correct lamp is a No. 97NA 4-candlepower. It is a dual contact base and the vendors have them. But they are expensive and rare, being used only one year on the Cougar! If you try to use the commonly-available amber single contact lamp (the only one that fits down in the recess of the marker light assembly) you will likely short out the two contacts, as one is positive 12 volts and the other ground, as is the base of the bulb, thus tripping the circuit breaker. If you change the wire lead and socket, then this incorrect lamp will work but be far too bright (read: easy for the judges to spot). Also: A clear No. 90 lamp will work in the '68 side markers, but you'll need to tint it amber for show purposes.

If you are lucky enough to have an XR-7G, you can usually trace fog light problems to the circuit breaker mounted on an extension bracket of the full relay cluster under the dash, near the accelerator. The wire to the console switch seems too short and readily comes off the circuit breaker terminal. The switch itself is a C8VY (Mark III) power window lock switch. If your G's fog lights vibrate when you drive, they're probably missing the two stabilizing brackets (actually bent threaded rod) that cross-connect the valence to the license plate bracket.

Interior & Dash Area

If you survived the past two sections, you are about a third of the way through a check of common '67 to '73 Cougar problems. Next, we move inside the car.

When you open the driver's door, lift up on the handle to see if the hinge pins are tight. If you can lift the door, the pins are worn and should be replaced. This is a somewhat major undertaking and you can leave it for later if you are going to paint the car. You can buy new hinges, buy repaired hinges or buy just the hinge pins and bushings and rebuild the hinges yourself. Scribe the present hinge locations on both the door and door post and remove just one hinge. The remaining hinge will hold things together, if you are careful. Next grind down the "staking" on the pin and drive it out. Replace the copper/bronze alloy bushings and put the new pin in. Check the length, and cut it down if it's too long. The pins fit many different door hinges. Taper-grind the new pin so it taps down in place. Then, with the hinge on an anvil or large vise, use a cold chisel to make a groove and spread the end, so the pin can't back out. Replace the hinge on the door and door post (it's a good idea to use anti-seize compound on the bolt threads). Tighten the bolts in a pattern until just snug, then test-close the door to check its fit. You still have to replace the other pin, but if things have not changed since the car was built, the position should be very nearly correct. Replace the other pin, and the door should close tight and snug. If you need to adjust the hinges, read the shop manual procedure carefully and proceed. There is no way to tell if the hinges or the strikers have been "adjusted" during a repaint, accident repair or whatever else to compensate for worn hinge pins.

If you have a '68 or '69 cat, check the driver seat back attachment for the recall campaign fix. There should be a heavy bracket secured by a bolt over the seat back attachment. There is a heavy pin on this bracket that forms the pivot for the seat back when positioned forward. For '69, this bracket is D7AA-69618C46-A and you will find one in most any Ford vendor's dollar pile. I got the recall because I still owned my car in 1977. Without this bracket, the front seat back pivot can break, allowing the seat back to fall rearward. Losing control this way leads to the sort of excitement you want to avoid. If you drive the car, put the bracket on soon! If you are selling the vehicle, at least inform the new owner of the situation.

More on the '69s: If you have an occasional ignition cut-off when driving or if the car sometimes refuses to start, be sure you have the ignition switch connector repair kit installed. Putting your hand up under the dash should reveal the C9AZ-14313-A connector kit, which was issued to replace defective connectors in '69 vehicles (all car lines). The new part has short wires that crimp to the harness conductors about 4 inches from the connector. This is the only year a connector was used. In 1968, the individual wires were secured to the ignition switch with a nut; in '70, the whole mess was incorporated into the steering column. Anyway, the connector caused an intermittent in the resistance wire primary to the coil, thus the ignition would cut off. See ATSOTC, volume 18, number 2 (June 1997), for the whole story of "the blue points."

Much has been written about the sequential turn signals, and this article is long enough without repeating the basics. But there are quirks, and here are the most common of them: In 1967, the turn signals used separate turn signal and emergency warning relays, which were eliminated in '68. These relays are on the bracket attached to the cowl near the accelerator pedal. Don't confuse these with the turn signal indicator relay, same location, used both years. Also, a different emergency warning relay is in the trunk--under the package shelf in '67 and on the turn signal motor board in '68. If someone has been playing under the dash before you, be sure the bracket ground is secure. The relays under the dash are generally trouble free, but the ones in the trunk are prime candidates for corroded ground connections. More about this in the trunk section.

For '69 and '70, there is a sequencer (like a separate flasher) just under the wiper switch. The '69 (early) sequencer is gold (C9WY-13350) or red (D0WY-13350A). After Dec. 29, 1969, all cars should use the green (D0WY-13350C) sequencer. The sequencer triggers the solid-state turn signal amplifier in the trunk. Assuming you have correct voltage (13.4V) from the alternator at idle, "lazy" turn signals or signals that stall in mid-sequence, usually are fixed by changing to the improved 13350C sequencer. But first try merely turning the sequencer upright in the bracket! The bimetallic switch in the sequencer has to heat up before it opens, and heat likes to rise. I cannot tell you how many times I have "fixed" '69 turn signals by merely turning the sequencer. Only once, in all these years, have I actually seen a defective signal amplifier. This might explain why there are so many at the swap meets and why they are so expensive--nobody ever needed one, yet the vendors think they are gold because they are electronic! The problem with the '69 system is that the current for the lamps is too much for the transistors for extended periods, particularly if there is low voltage or a poor ground. In '70, relays (same as for the T-Bird) were added to the amplifier to handle the lamp current; the transistors only actuated the relays, which then switched the lamps. There are a couple more things in the trunk to take care of for reliable turn signal operation and I'll discuss them in the "trunk" section of this article.

On to the brake lights. Pity the poor brake light switch, and the owner who needs to change one! It looks easy in the shop manual. It's anything but easy in real world. First off, lots of Cougars are using the C7ZZ (or equivalent) switch. This is for a Mustang, which only has two brake lights--Cougars, of course, have six! You should use the C7SZ switch from a T-bird for more current capacity. The connector tabs on these switches like to come loose--they are only riveted on, and this causes intermittent operation. Also, the connector itself likes to fail, or burn from the high current. Get a new switch and make sure the connector is good. Then, proceed to turn yourself over under the dash, put your hand between the steering column and the dash brace and emergency brake (heaven forbid you have a clutch pedal), blindly pull the switch pin, remove all the spacers and bushings from the pedal, put the new one in, getting it hooked over the master cylinder rod with everything in the right order, and reconnect the cable. If you are good, you can do this in about an hour. Don't even ask what to do if you have a tilt wheel or cruise control under there, too! A word or warning: do not get a C8LY Lincoln switch. It looks the same, but the connector goes to the left on these, and will ground out to the dash brace! Check it by tapping the brake pedal and seeing the brake lights flash. Keep up the good work--we're just starting to have fun.

You also need to be sure that brake light problems are not in the turn signal switch itself. The 12-volt signal goes from battery first to the turn signal, then back to the rear lamps via the brake light switch. Put a test light on the green/red stripe wire on the brake light switch with the ignition off, the turn signal switch centered and no pressure on the brake pedal. If the test lamp lights, the turn signal switch is OK. Most of the 13341 switches will work--they differ only in the length and type of wire and whether they are for use with a tilt wheel. But, again, you need to use a Thunderbird 'SZ' switch to handle the current for all six lamps. Many aftermarket switches are for two-lamp Mustangs or Falcons. But, again, you should use a Thunderbird 'SZ' switch to handle current for six lamps. In 1967, Cougars used the Mustang 'ZZ' switch. From '68 on, they used the 'SZ' switch. The switch in your cat may be an aftermarket switch only rated for two lamps. It's a good idea to put the 'SZ' switch in your '67, if it doesn't already have one. This is a tricky job--you want to take great care to keep track of which color wire goes in which connector hole. Drawing a quick chart before disassembly is a must.

Check under the dash for the air conditioner drain hose. It needs to pass through the floor board to the outside. Check the heater box--the plastic hose fitting to which the A/C drain hose attaches is fragile and easily broken when kicked. I once had a '67 from New Mexico that was rusted in half at the passenger floorboard from condensation running under the carpet. But you could read the part number on the back side of the fenders, so I sold the rear clip for $450 in 1989. . .it was mint! The whole heater box ought to come out to change the core, as the cover clips are near impossible to re-install, even if you get them out without breaking the box.

Check the driver door window glass in all '69s. They are glued into the channel and can easily come loose. Most of these are improperly adjusted, and when re-glued with epoxy, were not correctly positioned in the bracket. You will never get them right until you put new grip channel in the bracket, then reposition the window correctly, then glue it. You will probably find the tapped brackets that set the window height are stripped. You have to re-tap them, and use new bolts, or find yourself another set. I was lucky enough to order a new window assembly for my '69 XR-7 convertible in 1974. It was correctly glued at the factory and I merely installed it with no problem since! In '70 they pinned the glass to the channel, and, of course, reversed the quarter window rubber strip. A complete set of '70 windows will interchange to a '69, but this is easy for the judges to spot. And if you change to '70 windows, you have to change the door regulators, too. Also, some early '70s cats still had glued window channels.

While you are under there, remove the kick panel trim and get the leaves out of the air vents. These get wet and only cause rust in the cowl area. By the way, those of us with '89 to '97 cats need to be sure the water chutes forward of the door hinges stay clear, too!

If you have a '69 or '70, remove the cowl panel and reach under to the heater air intake. Be sure all the leaves and pine needles are flushed out. This is a favorite spot for rust and the water just floods the passenger floor. In a '67 or '68, if you have really small hands, you can go up through the swing-open air door, and get most of them. Nobody likes to pull the heater, but you will probably have to replace the heater core sooner or later. On A/C cars, the heater hoses connect under the hood. On straight heater cars, the hoses go through the cowl to connect to the core. The whole thing has to come out to change it. Another fine mess to look forward to. Thing is, even if the heater core does not leak, most of them develop a coating inside the core tubes that is a good insulator, thus very little heat is exchanged with the hot water! Result: very little heat or defrost action in cold weather, even when the engine is warm. Lots of thermostats have been changed (the hard way as described earlier) to get more heat, when the problem all along is the core. You can change the air bellows to the cowl vent area while the heater is out, plus remove leaves and whatever else worked its way into the heater box over the past 30-plus years.

If you are one of the fortunate few to have a sunroof on your cat, rest assured that American Sunroof absolutely can supply you new cables! Again, the switch is a MKIII power window switch, but it handles a lot of current if the sunroof is dragging. One very neat place to find a new switch: Find a MKIII or T-bird with the "Town Landeau" trim; that is, no quarter windows. You will find an unused switch under driver's side arm rest trim for the quarter windows that are not there. Actually, I saw a car that also had the windows! They must have found it easier to install them than to keep track of which cars did not need them! If you have a broken flex cable from the flat motor to the mechanism, just replace it with steel-braided 1/8-inch vacuum line from a speed shop. Use two small hose clamps to secure to the line to the two shafts--and measure very carefully. You get this right, and it will work fine. Take the motor apart and clean/re-lubricate the gears. And be very sure the drain hoses are clear and routed to the outside of the cowl, behind the kick panels. I learned most of this from a former ASC installer who lives here, in Daytona Beach! If you remove the headliner, you will be shocked at the sloppy welding that was done. This is why all sunroof cars came with a lightly padded vinyl roof--to cover the dimples in the metal! Be careful with the sunroof panel removed, as the whole top can be easily pushed to one side or the other, thus you can crack a windshield or distort the door opening; not a very pretty picture! I was lucky to find an original ASC installation/maintenance manual covering all their sunroofs. If you need special information, drop me a line.

Back to the A/C unit for a minute. The icing switch is what controls the compressor status (on or off). These switches are notorious for being badly off calibration. It sits on top of the plenum box under the dash (behind the glove box) and has a long capillary tube down the plenum and into the evaporator core. It is supposed to stop the compressor when the evaporator ices up, then start it again when the ice melts. Get a new one if you want the A/C to cycle correctly.

Last item for this section. Every Cougar was made with an auxiliary ignition feed wire for connection of aftermarket radios and other 12-volt accessories. It is the thick Black with Green stripe wire somewhere near the accelerator pedal. It terminates in a female socket connector, into which there may be a 1-to-3 adapter! I do not know, for the life of me, why so many wire harnesses have been mutilated looking for battery source with ignition on. Find it and use it, and then fix all the splices and other screw-ups people have performed over the past 30 years. I once had a '68 XR-7 with a stereo connected to the dash light feed to the oil gauge! Worked fine when the dash lights were on full brightness--until the wire melted (too small for thunder whumper woofer amp) and the light switch rheostat opened!

The Trunk

Assuming you have survived all the perils noted in the previous sections, it's time now to open the trunk. For therein lies most of the really easy Cougar quirks. Everything worked fine when they left the factory. Most all of the following problems occur after original dealer maintenance ended, such as an accident, a repaint, adding a trailer hitch, whatever.

First let's revisit the brake lights. The signal for these in '67 runs all over the place, but the early cars (mine included) missed out on some sort of anti-corrosion dipping to the connectors. Result, the brake lights were intermittent. On mine, there was green corrosion all over one pin on the big red connector on the turn signal motor assembly. . .all after less than six months since new. The dealer found it while I waited and that was all it needed. There is another set of connectors for all wires to the trunk just behind the left side kick panel. They might actually be under the sill plate. Check all for clean, tight connections.

One brake/turn signal light out, or dim, is most always traced to a poor ground in the tail light assembly itself. Take each lamp socket out, use fine sandpaper to clean the socket hole, bend the tangs on the holders to ensure a tight fit and check for corrosion on the bulb contacts. And be sure you have good 1157 bulbs, and only 1157 bulbs. Don't forget that this type lamp's current is a factor in the operation of the turn signals; one odd lamp can effect proper operation.

Next, make sure that the harness grounds--the two sheet metal screws in the fuel filler bracket--are tight and not insulated by new paint. This will also upset the turn signals, as we shall see.

Check the license light for a good ground and make sure water has not seeped under the glass lens. On '69s and up, check the side marker lights. Check the back-up lights on all years--these have a bulb ground lead that ends up in the black wire going to one of those screws.

Now to the emergency relay. It's under the package shelf on a '67 and mounted on the sequencer board in a '68. The relay ground comes out of the cover, is soldered to the case, and then to a black pigtail wire connected to ground--you guessed it, eventually getting to the screw along side the gas filler!! If this relay is not operating--and they corrode easily--you may have only the center lamps working for brake lights. . .and turn signals! There were some gas station and safety inspection mechanics who, not understanding the sequential system, merely removed this relay or its connector, thus restoring minimal safety operation. Often the problem is the relay itself. I once borrowed nine of these relays from Randy Goodling to find a good one--only three worked!

The '67 and '68 Cougar uses a second circuit breaker mounted on the left side tail light assembly to provide protection for the tail and license lights alone. If these are not working (the brake lights and turn signals can still work), check the push-on connector.

If you suspect problems in the sequential relay or motor itself ('67 and '68), try the obvious: Clean the connectors and check the ground. Also: There is no way you can use the '67 shop manual schematics to help with '68, and vice-versa.

If the low fuel warning lamp on your '69 doesn't work, relax! Most of them were disabled at the factory (referenced in bulletins) by rotating the connector on the sending unit or pulling the relay. The reasoning was that with less than a half tank of gas, they blink every time the car is in a turn--very annoying. Fix it if you must, but remember: I warned you! I truly believe that is what is really happening in the James Bond film, "On Her Majesty's Secret Service." Diana Rigg is driving a very early production '69 XR-7 convertible and there are good close up shots of the dashboard during the escape chase scene. The light is blinking all the time. You become worried she and Bond are out of fuel, but rest assured, the producers do not set up for a night chase scene like that with low fuel! Nor did they rig the car to make the light flash! Mine never worked from the day I took delivery; the dealer service manager told me it was disabled and that I would be the happier for it. I later fixed it, but it soon drove me crazy, so I pulled the relay.

The last thing I should mention is to lift the trunk mats and the sound deadener and check for metal fatigue where the rear spring shackles attach. You may not need new springs if this area is weak with rust. If not too serious, you may succeed in a temporary cure by jacking the car up to remove the weight and using long fiber steel filler to reinforce the area. This stuff is stronger than the trunk sheet metal, which normally supports the rear shackles. Check this area carefully on a new acquisition--this is a potentially serious safety defect in a daily driver.

Conclusion

This is certainly a long article, but it's been fun to document all these quirks I have encountered over the years. I hope all of you have found useful, interesting information applicable to your car and, just maybe, solved a problem you might never have known you had! Putting your Cougar back to the way it was when it rolled out of the factory certainly restores the pleasure of driving your Cat.