Tech Center: Q & A with Dick Hertzler
My
1967 standard Cougar with power steering has recurring steering vibration.
It occurs on smooth roads after maintaining a steady speed of 35 mph to
70 mph and will continue until the vehicle is slowed or stopped. It tends
to increase in intensity unless the car's speed or direction are changed.
Also, the steering wheel pulsates violently when the brakes are applied
at speed. On less than smooth roads, the problem seems to go away or does
not start at all. I have rebuilt the front end and had it professionally
aligned and installed a new power steering pump and steering ram. Could
the steering ram control valve cause this by floating back and forth when
it's centered? Is there an adjustment I can make to it?
You
hit the nail right on the head! The power steering valve needs to be rebuilt.
I'm not sure exactly what goes wrong, but your symptom is exactly like mine
in 1975. A new valve (they were cheap then) fixed my problem. Rebuild kits
or new or rebuilt valves are available from most Cougar parts vendors. Check
the vendor list on this
site.
I
just finished installing a rebuilt 351 Cleveland engine in my 1973 Cougar
and I think my firing order is not right. What is the correct firing order?
The
firing order for the Cleveland ( or Windsor) is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. For the
Cleveland, the distributor cap will be turned about one position farther
clockwise than the Windsor, when viewed from the front of the car. When
either engine is correctly timed, you will notice that the vacuum advance
unit on the distributor will be nearly centered between the air conditioner
and thermostat housing. If it comes close to touching either side, the distributor
could be off one tooth. Also, check the wires and plugs and the dwell and
timing.
Are
the tail lamps on a '68 XR-7 replaced individually from inside the trunk
or must the external plastic bezel be removed to provide access to all four
lamps concurrently?
These
bulbs are all accessible from inside the trunk. Remove the card- board protector
panel, if it's still there, and remove any socket by gently pressing to
either side and pulling straight out. Before reinstalling the socket, it's
a good idea to rub sandpaper on the inside edge of the hole and spread the
lamp socket grips to get a solid contact to ground. Also, make sure you
use only 1157 lamps.
I
plan on buying a '69 XR-7 convertible in Minnesota and will have it professionally
inspected by a third party before purchase. The owner says there is rust
through the trunk, above the gas tank. I don't have much experience with
rust and wonder if this is common. If so, does it indicate a bigger problem?
You
made a wise choice in getting the car inspected before purchase. The '69
is prone to rust in the torque boxes and seat supports, and these are critical
structural items, particularly in a convertible. Also, rust inside the cowl
box is common, both around the air intake and along the front edge seam
to the firewall. This leads to wet feet and floor pan rust, and can be the
cause of torque box and frame rail rust. Salt from winter use also will
also rust these areas, particularly if the area under the front fenders
where the frame rail turns up toward the spring tower is caked with mud
and grit. As to the area above the gas tank, some minor rusting is common
here, caused by leaks under the reveal molding or rear window seal (hardtops)
or the "rain drain" trough (convertibles). Make sure you look under the
trunk floor mat to evaluate the extent of the rust there. Also common is
rust at the rear of the trunk where the spring shackles attach, another
structurally important area. Once you have your inspection report, make
your purchase decision. Repair of the rust is straightforward, but will
require a complete disassembly to the body shell.
My
wife's '73 Cougar (351C-2V, automatic) burns up points. The problem's so
bad, I have to carry extra points at all times. Any ideas?
The
only thing that burns up points is a missing or bad resistor wire to the
coil in the engine harness. Perhaps it was damaged in early years and a
straight wire was installed in its place. Be sure the coil is installed
correctly and not wired backward. Of course, inexpensive points manufactured
overseas, as most are these days, do not last as long as the originals.
Also: make sure the condensor is functioning properly.
—Dick Hertzler
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