I have a 1968 XR-7. The drivers side door glass drops about 1 inch everytime I shut the door. Could the regulator be shot?

You hit it right on the head! Your regulator is faulty. Either the spring is broken or the gear teeth are worn so far that they do not grip. I bet it also doesnt catch evenly when you crank the window up. This is a common problem and easy to fix with a replacement regulator. Check any Cougar vendor for a good used one.

I recently purchased a 69 hardtop with a 351-2V Windsor and among many strange things Ive found under the hood (like the broom handle in the firewall) is a loose kick down rod. This is absolutely not going to attach where I think it shouldthe bracket I made didnt quite cut itand Chiltons makes no sense. Can you point me in the right direction?

The kickdown rod to the FMX transmission connects to a stud that attaches to the throttle shaft and lever assembly, just next to where the accelerator cable attaches. The stud often is missing on stick shift carburetors and many rebuilt units. Its one of the parts you have to move over from the old carb if you do a swap. You can see the complete kickdown rod illustration and adjustment procedure in the 69 shop manual, page 10-09-03.

My 1968 Cougar is equipped with the factory option door edge guards (originally a $4.90 option). Should these match the color of the interior or the vinyl roof? I have talked to a few people about these moldings and nobody has heard of them before. My moldings are faded from the sun and I cannot tell if they were originally white to match the roof, or saddle to match the interior.

The door edge guards are chromed plastic. When they fade or the chrome plating flakes off, you have only the plastic below, which is kind of a neutral color. I will buy all the sets of these you can provide at $4.90! Expect to pay $50 or more from any vendor who has them. Suggestion: If your guards are basically in good shape, gently pry them off. Clean them, sand them with fine paper and re-spray using the reflective aluminum paint (part number 10005Z) and clear coat (10197Z) from Eastwood Co. (800-345-1178). Be sure they know you are spraying plastic.

I need to unhook the vacuum headlight feed from the carburetor of my 1970 Cougar. Its leaking and causing really ugly running. Where is it on the carb? Is this an easy thing to do?

Headlight vacuum comes from a manifold tee behind the carburetor. Make sure you cap the port to which the headlight feed is connected. By the way, make sure your leak is not at this tee; the rubber cap on the downward-pointing connection sometimes melts and leaks. Your headlight leak most likely is in the reservoir tank under the fender.

Im having a problem with a 70 Cougar. We went through the transmission when we restored this car and installed a rebuilt torque converter. It now leaks, but only after sitting idle for several days. Any ideas on the source of the leak?

A local Ford service manager suggests you check for a damaged or missing O-ring seal where the transmission fill tube meets the case. He says the torque converter is leaking down (probably the result of a bad seal) and filling the pan to the point that you get leakage out of the fill tube connection. One clue to this problem is a brief delay before the transmission engages after the car has sat idle for a few days, a result of too little fluid in the converter (but the dip-stick will show full due to the leak down).

I have a 1996 Cougar. It has a factory keyless entry system and a dealer installed Ford Vehicle Security System. After a recent battery change, the security system lost its settings. The alarm sets itself every time the ignition is turned off. Before, the alarm set whenever the doors were locked either by the keyless remote or the power door lock switch. I have no manual for programming and the local dealership is no help. All I want is to set the alarm when I want to. Can you help me?

I also have the Vehicle Security System with Keyless Entry on my 92 25th Anniversary car. Ive had similar problems and learned that Ford maintains a special help line (800-FORD-KEY) with a menu prompt for owners with keyless entry or vehicle security system. Give this a try.

Odds n Ends

n One of the CCOAs best friends is long-time member and GT Registrar Brett Irick, who owns (and drives often) one of the only Concours-class cars we have: a white 67 390 GT. Brett is an engineer with Ford, currently New Model Launch Manager, Panther Frame at the Dearborn frame plant. The Panther Frame will get rack and pinion steering and is being beefed up to handle the 2003 Mercury Marauder. Brett has been a great help to me answering your questions and reminded me that +2 degrees caster (a bit outside spec) gives best handling/road feel to big block cars on radial tires. He also recommends the one-piece export brace, available from most vendors, in lieu of the two standard shock tower braces. As to steering gear, Brett recommends Rodes Restoration, in Galion, Ohio, (419-468-5182) for rebuilt steering boxes, power steering cylinders and control valves. He also recommends an annual check of steering box lubricant level and FoMoCos C3AZ-19758-A lubricant. For wheel bearing grease, even on older vehicles, Brett suggests E8TZ-19590-A 4X4 High Temp grease. And stick with DOT-3 brake fluid (higher guaranteed boiling temperature, critical to the four-piston disc brakes on the 67 Cougar), Brett advises. Changing the brake fluid every three years is highly recommended. Thanks, Brett, for your attention to the questions I forward to you!

Dick Hertzler