Dear Dick: I have a '70 Eliminator 428, standard transmission. The car will not shut off. I have checked everything and replaced almost everything. A friend suspects a short somewhere under the dash.

I can almost assure you there is a short in the ignition lead inside the steering column or, simply, a defective or misadjusted switch. The switch is adjustable on two screws so that the action of turning the key runs the switch through all its functions. This is a somewhat common problem. A rare cause, but still possible, is that the normal ignition path through the resistance wire from the column switch is OK, but the alternate full 12-volt path for starting is shorted in the harness at or near the start relay.

Disconnect the wire on the relay nearest the shock tower ( the side of the relay with the cable to the starter). The other push-on wire is the start circuit itself from the ignition switch. If the car will stop now with the key off, then you have your problem (note, of course, that it will not start again until you connect the wire). Look for something obvious here. The circuit is actually very simple. Acid burns in the harness near the battery can do something like this, but you would likely have other problems, as well.

Another thought, Gregg: Because you have a stick shift, check the cable from the shifter to the ignition column and clutch pedal. The pedal has to be down and the transmission in reverse before the car will start. And the car should not turn off unless the shifter is in reverse. Something wrong here could be the culprit.

One more thing: Just today, I talked to a guy who also, years ago, had a '70 428 four-speed that would not turn off. He changed everything, including the wire harness. Turned out to be a shorted voltage regulator. One of the contacts would not open when the ignition was turned off. The clue was that the car's interior lights would go out when he stalled the car to stop it, but then after cycling the switch, would come back onthe car would start right up. He said there was a minor dent in the regulator cover that he believes happened during a battery removal. Let us know what you find.

Hello. I'm doing my best to restore a '68 XR-7. Because my car is completely dismantled, I have the possibility of having the underside and inside floors and ceiling painted the correct color. But the car has been restored once before and now I have no way to know the correct color for those areas. Do you know? My car is a "black cherry" color.

Two other things: First, regarding styled steel wheels: Some say the painted areas of those should be some sort of greyis "argent" the right name? Others say these areas should match the car's body color. Which is correct? Also: Do you have any idea who sells parts, such as drive cables and weatherstripping, for this car's electric sunroof?

The floor panels and ceiling of your car are not painted, just steel color. On the underside, there was undercoating, which is black. Under the carpet, just plain steel with heavy body sealer at seams, then the heavy sound deadening mat, then the carpet and pad. Sunroof cars were primered after the modifications by American Sunroof Inc. At least that is the case with mine. Order a copy of the CCOA's judging standards book for miscellaneous correct color standards (Call Randy Goodling at (717) 367-6700 for details). Regarding wheel color: Paint color for '67 wheels is argent (silver). In '68, it is black. Body color was not an option until '69, and those are unusual and rare, as argent was standard. Get the paint, available in spray cans, from The Eastwood Co.

As for the sunroof cables, the sunroof is Metric, by Bosch. I believe the cables are 36 inches and you can get them from American Sunroof. Search the Web and look for the company's Boston, Mass., division, where, I am told, they have them in stock. The cables should be the same as Mercedes-Benz of that era, I believe. Good luck. By the way, I've sent your letter to Randy Goodling for possible sources for sunroof gaskets.

Dear Dick: I have already messed up the installation of two replacement rim blow horn switches. Can you help me install these darn things?

Yeah, they are a devil to install. You have to remove the wheel to handle this job without the back pressure of the steering gear as you work around the wheel. You need to be sure the groove in the wheel is cleanscrape it with something to be sure, then clean it with a solvent safe for plastics. Then, apply lots of petroleum jelly! Some on the switch, some in the groove. Slightly arch the switch as you put one edge in, to get the other edge into the wheel slot. Never use any pointed instrument. Instead, make a tool out of wood about three-quarters of an inch long, slightly more narrow than the groove and with a rounded tip. With this tool, you can press the switch into the groove as you work around the wheel. Never stretch or pull the switch! This can cause the contacts inside to break through the insulation and short, thus blowing the horn all the time.

With the wheel out, you can compress the switch with your rounded tool (just as your fingers do when you blow the horn). Probably best to measure and begin the insertion at the middle, working around to each end, back and forth. This should do it.Dick Hertzler, #32