I have all the original A/C parts for my '69 and am ready to re-install them. At an auto parts store, I was told that retrofitting to use R-134 instead of R-12 simply involved a conversion kit that included new type seals and the R-134. If that's the case, I don't really have to worry because I don't think these systems use O-rings for sealsthe connections look like compression fittings. Am I correct that I can just assemble the system and have it evacuated and refilled at an A/C shop? (Almost too good to be true.) One last question: I have the original dryer unit. It has been stored, unsealed, for several years. I am not sure what is inside the dryer. Should I just get a new one from an auto parts place or will evacuating the system dry everything out, including the dryer?

I have a '69 with A/C myself. I checked with a certified Freon A/C mechanic here in Florida, where R-12 is still banned, except in limited circumstances. He said go with R-134 with no change. If you get the kit, it likely will have a new oil charge included that has a new oil additive that chemically activates the old oil to flow with the R-134. In essence, simply evacuate the system and recharge with R-134. It's best if you remove all the old oil from the compressor, but that's not really necessary. There was a lot of confusion surrounding the change from R-12 to R-134, but it only took the industry a short while to come up with compatible chemistry. You'll notice that the R-134 system is not as cold as R-12 and takes longer to cool a really hot car. After you evacuate the system (pull vacuum for about 45 minutes), allow the gauges to stay on for 15 minutes to ensure no air enters the system. Then admit the new R-134 in the conventional manner, and you are done!

Regarding the dryer: The old one will work fine if it still has cap seals. If you're not sure, get a new one. The R-134 is quite different from R-12 and will not absorb as much moisture. The dryer is not quite as important as it used to be. It was there mostly to prevent slight moisture from freezing at the expansion valve on the firewall where the A/C lines go through to the evaporator. Proper evacuation of an air-tight system will not leave enough moisture for R-134 to freeze. But you do need to keep the dryer in the circuit.

I am the proud owner of a 1967 XR-7 Cougar. I have a question about the wooden dash in my car. Is it actually wood? Mine seems to be made of steel with a very poor veneering job done on it. I live in Australia and the car has been converted to right-hand drive, which explains why the underneath panel is like a patchwork quilt. I would appreciate any help you can give me on this subject, as I am about to start a rebuild and I was under the (mistaken?) impression that the dash was actually made of wood.

Nice to hear from the land down under! None of the Cougar XR-7 dash boards are real wood, though that would have been very nice. They are, indeed, metal with a "die-noc" vinyl covering, much like contact paper. They can be stripped and recovered if you find the material in a length sufficient to have the grain lines match up all the way across the dash. Many vendors have nice pieces available. You can transfer your instruments, switches, and gauges to the piece. Again, get a full set from the same carsome of them have a gray tint to them, others have black lines. When your car was converted to right-hand drive, I presume at the factory as an export car, the panels were not interchangeable left to right. The left side of the U.S. cluster has a rounded edge and will not mate with the center piece. Likewise, the right side with the oil gauge on U.S. cars has the rounded edge on the right. It's best to recover your old panels. It should be a fairly straightforward procedure to strip and sand them and repaint the chrome edge (The Eastwood Co., (800) 345-1178, has a great paint for this!). Then, recover with woodgrain material. Let the editor know how it works out!Dick Hertzler, #32