Recently, I removed the fuel level sending unit from my '70 XR-7 and found that the float has cracked. Any suggestions for fixing this or for an alternative float to use?

You can get a replacement sending unit from any Mustang vendor, but you will lose the low fuel function. Nobody--and I mean nobody--has made these, repairs them or has even seen a new one in 20 years! You might just have luck changing the float, if you are good with solder. Get one the same size from any parts car or used parts pile. If you have put the drain plug in with Teflon tape, then you can readily remove the gas to pull the sending unit anytime you need to work on it. This is pipe thread, and usually takes a large wrench to get it out the first time. The new gasket for the sending unit is available at any Ford or Lincoln-Mercury dealer for about a buck. Get two, in case you mess one up or pinch it. Be sure the flange ring is not bent.

I have a 1969 XR-7 Eliminator that I'm in the process of restoring. Based on a wiring diagram, it seems as if I've got everything connected correctly, but I'm only getting headlights and running lights--no tail lights or rear turn signals. Any suggestions?

Odds are the turn signal switch itself is bad. There may be a broken wire at the four-way flasher switch. If just the brake lights are out (you said tail lights, but I will assume you also meant brake lights), also check the brake light switch or the connector that passes this signal through the turn signal switch. The connector on the brake light switch itself is a common problem, often working loose. I just discovered myself that the '69 brake switch is unique because the power brake booster actuator turns downward (the '68 and '70 actuators are straight). The '69 uses a Mustang (C9ZZ) brake switch, which has a weaker spring than that in the Thunderbird switch, which is sometimes recommended. Last, check the three connectors in the trunk at the sequencer box and ensure they're free of corrosion.

A Cougar driven by one of my customers has an overheating problem. When a 160 degree thermostat is installed and the car is driven on a cool day, the temperature stays in the 175 degree range for a while then begins to rise to the 200 degree to 210 degree range. We have checked the engine block for rust by removing the freeze plugs and looking inside; it's clean. We have tried different thermostats and replaced the radiator with a three-row, but no difference. The water pump is OK. Can you help?

This may sound strange, but 200 degrees to 210 degrees after a long run is not too high for a "broken-in" engine--the pressure cap will keep the boiling point to about 230 degrees or higher. You really need a 180 degree or 190 degree thermostat in the car! I have had this problem myself, and a Ford Service Manager told me the lower temperature thermostat allows the water to run too quickly through the radiator, not giving it adequate time to cool. Other things to check: If the car has A/C, be sure the fan clutch is operating properly. When the engine's cold, the fan should spin freely. When warm, the fan should resist turning by hand. Also, check engine timing and the general condition of the valves. If compression is low due to valve sealing, the engine will run hotter than normal. Make sure the lower radiator hose has not collapsed from weakness as the car is accelerated. Finally, check that the small thermostat bypass hose is clear.

A friend installed an Edelbrock manifold and a Holley 600 on my '71Cougar. The car runs great as long as I do not stomp the pedal. If I do, it cuts out like it has a governor on the engine. It seems like the car does not want to shift out of second (C-6 transmission). I've replaced the points, condenser, plug wires and coil. No change. The Cougar runs fine on the expressway as long as I do not stomp on the gas pedal.

Ah, yes, the old C-6 tranny problem. Actually, it should be simple! Most of the C-6 installations in Cougars have a vacuum kickdown line with a 3-inch curled vacuum hose to connect from the transmission to the vacuum line. This likes to open up! With the vacuum leak, the transmission will not downshift. The leak also can make the engine run roughly. Crawl underneath your car and check the condition of this hose. There will be lots of grease, so you will have to pull the vacuum hose off to really check for a crack or tear. Use good line and install a full loop in the line instead of the original formed "J" shape. There is nothing wrong with the Edelbrock/600 cfm setup--sounds about right for the car.

—Dick Hertzler