Tech Center: Q & A with Dick Hertzler

Q:I want to redo the wiring under the hood of my 1968 XR-7, but haven't been able to find a harness. Can a 1968 Mustang GT harness be modified to fit my Cougar? Also, do you know where I can find quarter panels for my car?

A:Nobody has seen new or reproduction quarter panels the '68 Cougar in many years. You will find quarter patch panels from CJ Pony Parts and other vendors. They're for the Mustang and Cougars panels are a bit longer, but they'll work for patches to MIG weld in. Regarding the wiring harness, a Mustang harness will not work, particularly if you have an XR-7. If you do not have wiring diagrams, get a reprint shop manual (again, available from most Cougar parts vendors) and consult Chapter 19. Also, check the vendors section of the CCOA Web site (www.cougarclub.org) and contact vendors for a good used harness. New alternator harnesses are available from John's Classic Cougars, if that is your problem (battery acid burned through it). Most folks just remove the harness, unwrap it and repair or replace individual wires as needed. Rewrap the whole thing in electrical tape and you will be back on the road.

Q:I have an annoying squeak coming from the front driver's side area of my '69 hardtop. It seems to come from the shock absorber upper mounting bracket area and I can replicate the noise when not driving by pushing up and down on the fender. The noise has been present before and after replacement of the shock absorber. I've tried silicone spray and had the ball joints replaced a few years ago. Any suggestions on how to eliminate this squeaking? Could it be coming from the spring insulator?

A:Your squeak is a common problem. It comes from the upper control arm bushings. One of Ford's "not so better ideas" was the permanently lubricated suspension bushings. These begin to squeak usually on the way home from the dealership! The fix is to remove the two plugs in the end of the upper control arm and install 35-degree "zerk" (lube) fittings in the holes. Although less desirable, you can use 45-degree fittings as an alternative. Then, put the grease gun on the zerks and pump away! Your squeak will disappear. Be careful not to strip the threads of the control arm when fitting in the zerks.

Q:I have a '68 Cougar with a lot of wiring problems. First, the horn doesn't work, but when you press the button and have your arm out the window, you'll get a shock. Also, I have a dead short where the steering column connects to the power steering gearbox (the coupling with six bolts). It happens every time I turn the wheel left or right-the light inside, by the heater, flickers. Last, when you press the window washer pedal, the back lights go out.

A:You have a very interesting problem! A quick check of wiring diagrams appears to indicate you have a defective turn signal switch. The horn feeds off the headlight switch circuit breaker. So, when you press the horn, a short in the turn signal switch (very common, by the way) might produce a small jolt when your arm is grounded on the window ledge. I am guessing that when you push the washer pedal, you also are wiggling the dimmer switch, and that also likes to short, which will trip the circuit breaker on the headlight switch. There is no connection whatsoever between the circuits for the washer and back lights, but there certainly is a connection between the dimmer switch and the rest of the lighting. By the way, a defective turn signal switch is a common cause of loss of brake lights. Be sure you get a Thunderbird switch (C8SZ), not a Mustang switch! Mustangs have only two brake lights, Cougars have six! The Mustang switch, designed to handle the current of two lamps, might have been put in your car sometime in the past and melted from the current draw of your Cat's six lamps. I also recommend a shop manual for the wiring diagrams; they're invaluable in diagnosing electrical problems.

Q:I am restoring a 1969 Cougar and the hide-away headlight vacuum actuator boot has a tear in it. Is it necessary to replace the boot, or is there a way to "seal" the boot? If it has to come off, where can I find a replacement and how do I get it off?

A:I have never taken an actuator apart. I have fixed many minor leaks where the boot surrounds the actuator by using simple sealant. If you have a tear, I suggest you get a used one from a Cougar parts vendor. Many of those listed on the CCOA Web site (www.cougarclub.org) sell quality used parts and finding a used or rebuilt vacuum motor shouldn't be too difficult. The actuators rarely go totally bad, but a torn boot will definitely leak.

Dick Hertzler